Ornamental stitching and method of producing same



1 Oct. 20, 1936.. J. A. ebolsMAN 1 2,058,308 7 OBNAMENTAL STITCHING AND METHOD OF PR'ODUC-ING SAME Fi le d May 9, 1952 1 '4.Sheets Shee'.t'-1.'

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I ORNAMENTAL STITCHING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Filed May 9, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 Ot.20,1936. J, A 55 mm 2,658,308

ORNAMENTAL STITCHING AND METHOD PRODUCING SAME Filed May 9, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet; 5 7

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Patented Get. 20, 1936 UNETED STATES PATENT. OFFICE,

ORNAMENTAL STITCHING AND METHOD OF PRODUCING SAME Jacob A. Goodman, Indianapolis, Ind.

Application May 9, 1932, Serial No. 610,226

4 Claims.

The invention pertains to sewing and involves the production of a novel stitch formation of ornamental character which may be used to great advantage for edging or joining fabrics and for ornamenting the surface of fabrics. The proposed stitching may be used as a substitute for embroidery or lace work, and possesses characteristics which give the same a pleasing and novel appearance such as renders it extremely useful for general decorative purposes in connection with all kinds of fabrics and garments or other articles. It may be produced cheaply and rapidly, and by resort to some slight changes in its detached construction a great unexpected variety of different ornamental effects can be attained.

Whereas it is conventional in forming a series of successive stitches in association with fabric to sew each stitch, that is, pass each through the fabric. I now propose as one feature of my invention the production of a novel stitch formation wherein only predetermined intermittent stitches are sewed by passing them through the fabric, the other stitches being formed independently of the fabric. It is also conventional, in sewing, to form the stitches and thereafter draw them tight against the sewed fabric, permitting the interloops or concatenations of the stitches to position themselves indiscriminately. In general such practices result in a stitch formation which, while having utilitarian value, is entirely lacking in ornamental qualities. According to a further feature of my invention I propose to obtain an ornamental and uniform construction by making the stitches loose and during the step of drawing the stitch into final shape withholding the stitches against being drawn small and tight and against the fabric surface, and govern the position of the concatenation or concatenations within the stitch. The present invention comprises the method of producing stitching having one or more of these novel characteristics and the article resulting from the method.

In prior sewing practice it has been conventional to sew with a stitch forming mechanism including a needle. The needle passes the sewing thread through the fabric and is used to form interloops or concatenations either with the needle thread alone or with a plurality of threads including the needle thread to produce stitches. Each time the needle forms a stitch, incident thereto it passes its thread through the fabric, and the result is a sewed stitch. In order to produce a stitch formation with one of the stitch characteristics mentioned above I eliminate the step of passing the needle and itsthread through the fabric during the formation of predetermined intermittent stitches of a series and thus produce one or more unsewed or chain stitches between sewed stitches. So long as the stitches are under the influence of the stitch forming elements they will maintain their original structure. However, when the stitches have been completely formed and are no longer under the influence of the stitch forming implements, the sewed stitches and the unsewed stitches will readjust themselves, losing their individually and uniformly in character, and the result will be a stitch structure comprising a mass of concatenations having a definite pattern such as will present a pleasing ornamental effect.

Under known sewing practice it is conventional to form concatenations to produce stitches and thereafter to draw the stitches tight against the fabric surface. At the place where the concatenations happen to contact with the fabric they will be held more or less firmly until the stitch has been completely formed. The sewing thread will lie close to the fabric and the position of the concatenations within the stitches will be governed to an appreciable extent by the place where 25 they happen to come in contact with the fabric.

In order to produce a stitch formation with uniform and definitely positioned concatenations with reference to the fabric being operated upon I propose to form the stitches around an element located in spaced relation with the fabric and to draw the stitches down upon the surface thereof so that the concatenations will be engaged and held until the stitches are completed and set. This element may be a chaining finger but for 35 best results the same is preferably shaped to have edges or other portions which will engage the concatenations. To'produce rather loose stitches an element of appreciablecross section should be used and/or the space between the element and 40 the fabricmay be increased. By holding concatenationsspaced apart wide stitches are produced which have a pleasing ornamental appearance. By one or more of these expedients I am able to produce stitches of simple construction, which heretofore have only been useful to join fabric sections, with pleasing ornamental appearance. By holding the concatenations in definite position within the stitch successive stitches will be uniform to enhance the ornamental effect.

The various features of stitch construction described above can be used alone or they can be combined in the same stitch formation to produce different ornamental effects. As will be more clear from further consideration of thespecification and the accompanying drawings a wide variety of pleasing ornamental effects can be obtained by the application of my invention to conventional sewing practice.

My invention is applicable to the formation of various types of stitches. It can be practiced on the various types of sewing machines. Thus, for example, it presents a number of special advantages over prior art practice: when used. in the production of the overedge stitch and on overedging machines. I have practiced this invention on the conventional looping machine with great success and have made slight modifications in the machine to facilitate the practice of my invention. This is made the subject-matter of my copending application, Serial No. 610,225, filed May 9th, 1932, now Patent No. 2,012,560, issued August 27th, 1935, to which application reference is made for a more thorough understanding of the production of my novel stitching.

As above indicated, the present invention is useful and can be used in place of conventional stitching. It has utility as an ornamental edging for a fabric. It can also be used to join fabrics together. It can also be used to take the place of ordinary embroidery. As carried out with an overedge stitch it is especially satisfactory. The conventional overedge stitchthe double chaining stitchhas heretofore been found only useful for joining fabric sections together. By the exercise of my invention a wide variety of pleasing embroidery effects can be obtained by this heretofore rather unattractive stitch. The ornamental effect is increased considerably in using yarns of different color in the stitch formation. My overedge embroidery stitches are obtained by stitching over a folded edge. The manner in which the edges are folded will, in a measure, determine the appearance of the stitch. Thus ,the'particular fold will determine whether the embroidery stands high away from' the fabric or lies close to the fabric, and also whether the stitches will be loose or be tensioned by the fabric.

For a more detailed showing of the invention reference is made to the accompanying drawings in which like reference characters represent like parts.

Figs. 1 to 3 show various specific stitch structures which can be obtained by using the two stitch characteristics together or separately in various ways;

Fig. 1 showing the result of alternate sewed and unsewed stitches,

Fig. 2 showing a three and one sequence of sewed and unsewed stitches, this characteristic being used alone, and

Fig. 3 showing the same sequence of sewed and unsewed stitches as Fig. 2 with the added characteristic of widely spaced concatenations;

Fig. 4 is a cross section showing the manner in which the sewed stitches are formed;

Fig. 5 is a cross section showing the manner in which the unsewed stitches of Figs. 1 and 3 are produced;

Fig. 6 is a cross section showing the manner in which the unsewed stitches of Fig. 2 are formed;

Figs. 7 to 14 show various useful applications of my invention,

Fig. 7 being a cross section, and Fig. 8 an elevational view showing a way in which the invention can be used for joining fabric sections, and

Figs. 9 to 14 are cross sectional views showing various 'ways in which the invention can be used instead of embroidery work.

aorsasos My invention is applicable to various types of stitching. In the embodiments shown I utilize the same in what is conventionally known as the double chaining stitch, made up of a needle thread II, and an interlooper thread I2, conventionally supplied by the needle and looping finger respectively of a sewing machine. These threads are interlooped into concatenations l3 and I4 along either edge of the series of stitches. will be clearly seen from Figs. 5 and 6 the concatentions are positioned in the stitch and caused to maintain that position until the stitch forming mechanism, the needle and looping finger mentioned above, have completed the formation of the stitch. To do this I employ an element [6,

similar to and functioning as the chaining finger of a looping machine, which has edges ll, which, during the formation of the stitch, engage and hold concatenations until the stitch is completed. This is more fully described in my copending application directed to the machine, above referred to. Thus a highly ornamental stitch is obtained by the simple process described above. Heretofore, so far as I am aware, the double chaining stitch has not been considered ornamental and has not been used for ornamentation.

Referring now to Fig. 1, there is found a stitch structure which results from sewing only alternate stitches. As more fully described in my copending application, Serial No. 610,225, the needle penetrates the fabric during the formation of every second stitch. From Fig. 4 it will be seen that the needle thread II will penetrate the fabric I 4 at l5 just as in forming ordinary stitching. This, however, takes place in forming only alternate stitches. In the formation of the other stitches the needle thread does not pass through the fabric, but instead lies along the bottom of the element I6, as seen at IS in Fig. 5. The stitches maintain the form of double chaining stitches until they leave the element l6. Whereas, with all stitches sewed the fabric holds the stitches in their double chaining stitch formation, when only predetermined intermittent stitches are sewed and the remaining stitches are unsewed or chain stitches, the fabric does not hold the unsewed stitches in formation. The sewed and unsewed stitches merge and lose some of their individuality. The result is a patterned mass of conoatenations l9, Fig. 1, which present an ornamental effect heretofore never obtained, but which is most nearly approached by lace or knotted work.

Although Fig. 1 shows an alternation of single sewed and unsewed stitches, other sequences can be used. In addition, the sequence can be varied along the series of stitches to produce a variety of ornamental effects. One or more sewed stitches separated by. one or more unsewed will result in an ornamental fabric within the scope of my invention. In Figs. 2 and 3, I show stitch structures obtained with a sequence of one to three, i. e., one sewed stitch and three unsewed stitches. In carrying out these embodiments on a looping machine in accordance with the disclosure of the invention of my copending machine application, the fabric is empaled on every fourth pin of the looper dial, or only every fourth stitch forming station of the dial is equipped with an empaling pin. Other stations can be equipped with the shortened pin described in that application. It will be noted from Figs. 2 and 3 that the needle thread II has penetrated the fabric at 2| and is interlooped with the looping finger thread l2 to form a sewed stitch. It will be noted that, be-

tween the places of fabric penetration 2|, there are three unsewed stitches which have merged with each other and with the sewed stitches to lose their identity and present masses of concatenations 22 and 23 respectively.

It will be recalled thus far there are two phases of the invention resulting in two distinct characteristics of stitch. As previously noted, a plurality of successive sewed stitches with their concatenations positioned in spaced relation present pleasing ornamental effects alone. So also a plurality of successive stitches with a predetermined sequence of sewed and unsewed stitches will pre sent a, pleasing ornamental effect without special positioning of the concatenations. For example, the fabric shown in Fig. 2 was produced on a looping machine equipped with a small round chaining finger such as 24 shown in Fig. 6. As will be clear from this figure there will be less sewing thread in each stitch than when the wide element It of Fig. is used. Under the embodiment of Fig. 6 there will be small amounts of needle and looping finger thread relative to the amounts of these threads in the embodiments of Figs. 4 and 5. This will also involve a difference in ratio of needle and looping finger thread a so that relative to the looping finger thread there will be a greater amount of needle thread. In the use of the wide chaining finger, presuming that in each case the chaining finger is the same distance above the fabric being sewed, the additional needle thread required in sewed stitches in order to extend the needle thread from an edge I! of the chaining finger through the fabric 14 to the other edge I! will not unbalance the ratio of needle and interlooping thread as much as when the narrow chaining finger is used. This can be seen by comparing Figs. 5 and 6 and noting that the distance between edges l1 and the diameter of the chaining finger 24 respectively are the primary factors determining the amount of interlooper thread in each stitch, whereas the distance from the chaining finger to the fabric being sewed is the important factor in determining the amount of needle thread in each stitch. As regards unsewed stitches the ratio between needle thread and interlooper thread is approximately balanced. The additional needle thread in sewed stitches is distributed between intermittent sewed and unsewed stitches because of the merging and loss of identity of the individual stitches above referred to. Thus the more unsewed stitches between sewed stitches the more nearly balanced will be the ratio between needle and interlooper thread. This will result in a predominance of needle thread in the mass of concateriations 22, Fig. 2, whereas there will be a predominance of interlooper thread in the mass of concatenations 23, Fig. 3. Due to the use of the normal chaining finger the stitch structure will be tighter and the mass of concatenations. 22 will be firmer. This can be seen by comparing Figs. 2 and 3.

By combining the two characteristic features of stitch structure, sewed and unsewed stitches and concatenations held positioned in spaced relationship, a result is attained such as shown in Fig. 3. As will be clear from Fig. 6 the amount of needle and looping finger thread within each stitch is nearly the same. The difference is made up of the additional thread required to extend from an edge I! through the fabric l4 and to the other edge II. This difference is not great because it appears only once in four stitches, and therefore does not unbalance the thread ratio appreciably. It, of course. will be clear that the dimensions of the element [6, or the diameter of the finger 24, the distance between the element H5 or the finger 24 and the fabric. and the location of the element in a direction transversely through the fabric are factorswhich determine the relative quantity of needle and looping finger thread in the stitch structure and the size of the loops formed of each. It will also be recognized that the stitch tension on the respective threads, and the sequence of sewed and unsewed stitches will be contributing factors. Thus it will be clear that by simple adjustments and manipulations fabrics are opened out flat as seen in Fig. 8. If

the two fabrics joined are to have the appearance of continuous fabric, or if there is to be no break in the continuity of the composite fabric a tight stitch is selected, this being obtained through the use of an ordinary chaining finger.- Fig. 8 illustrates this. On the other hand it may be desired to have the fabrics spaced apart either for ornamental effect or for utilitarian purposes. In my copending application, Serial No. 595,349,

filed February 26, 1932, I disclose a specific use of this type of stitch for the purpose of ornamentation and also in order to leave a space between the fabric sections to permit their being readily cut apart. In this application the stitching has both characteristics as will be noted.

My stitch can be used instead of embroidery work as the same is now applied to fabric. Although my invention is broad enough to include other than overedge stitching, be it noted that it presents new results when carried out with this type of work. So far as I am aware, no one has ever employed overedge stitching for embroidery work. It will also be apparent that overedge stitching can be done with less expensive equipment, and also with less cost of production due to the lesser skill required in manipulating the overedging machine. Thus I am able to make ornamental effects similar to embroidery more cheaply than heretofore.

In order to do this I fold the fabric as shown in Fig. 9, and present the folded edge 21 to the stitch forming mechanism. When the fabric is spread out flat as shown in Fig. 10, the concatenations of the stitch will be superimposed on the face of the fabric as at 25. It will be readily seen from the previous discussion that a wide variety of ornamentation can be obtained to replace most any conventional embroidery work. The point l5 and its distance from the folded edge 21 will be determined by the tightness of the stitch as predetermined under the principles above enumerated. At the same time the position of the line of sewing represented by the reference character l5, relative to the folded edge 21, will play an important part in the stitch structure, because the amount of fabric 28 incorporated within the stitch will determine to what extent the fabric and the stitch will respectively receive the tension exerted on the fabric under normal conditions.

In-Fig. 11 I show another method of stitching to :simulate embroidery'work; In this case the fabric is given two folds 32, leaving a back fold 33 between. In this case the distance from the edges of the folds 32 to the points I is of less importance, but the extent of the back fold '33 is important. As illustrated'in Fig. 12 the fabric 33 which constitutes the back fold is of greater extent than the needle thread II between the ccncatenations and the tension on the fabric in use will be carried by the stitching threads H and I2. The result will be that the stitching is thread in the completed stitching. Thus the fabric 33 will cooperate with the stitches to carry the tension on the fabric in use and the stitching will not stand high above the surface of the fabric.

In exercising my invention on the ordinary looping machine or a modification thereof the fabric to be sewed is empaled on pins which function to present the fabric to the stitch forming mechanism and guiding the sewing needle through the fabric at the desired point. The fabric to be sewed can be perforated or fabricated with holes 36 to facilitate empaling it on the dial pins of the looper and insure that the stitches lie in uniform relation on the fabric. This, however, is not necessary because the dial pins for empaling the fabric are somewhat pointed and will readily receive the fabric, especially if the same is'of loose texture. In carrying out my invention on knitted fabric, holes for conveniently empaling the fabric on the pins can be readily produced by transferring loops during the knitting process. This is well understood in the knitting art and is disclosed in Patent No. 2,012,560 issuing on my copending application, Serial No. 595,349.

What I claim is:

1. Fabric stitching comprising a continuous chain of structurally similar stitches formed of two threads, each stitch including loops in each of the respective threads, the loop of the first thread in a:stitchembracingboth legs ,ofzthe loop of the second thread and the loop of the second thread embracing both legs of the loop of the first thread in the same stitch, certain recurrent spaced stitches of the chain each passing through and engaging the fabric attwo laterally spaced points, other of said stitches of the chain intermediate the fabric engaging stitches being constituted free of direct connection with the fabric.

2. Ornamental fabric stitching comprising a continuous chain of structurally similar stitches formed of two threads, each stitch being loosely constituted with an excess of thread in .its loops to present a relatively open formation of orna-' mental character, the loop of the first thread in a stitch embracing both'legs of the loop of the second thread and the loop of the second thread embracing both legs of the loop of the first thread in the same stitch, certain recurrent spaced stitches of the chain each passing through and engaging the fabric at two laterally spaced points, other of said stitches of the chain intermediate the fabric engaging stitches being constituted free of direct connection with the fabric.

3. Stitching joining the edges of two fabric sections comprising a continuous chain of structurally similar stitches formed of two threads, each stitch including loops in each of the respective threads, the loop of the first thread in a stitch embracing both legs of the loop of the second thread and the loop of the second thread-embracing both legs of the first thread in the same stitch, certain recurrent spaced stitches of the chain each passing through and joining the edges of both fabric sections, other stitches of the chain intermediate the fabric engaging stitches being constituted independently of and free of direct connection with either fabric section.

4. The method of stitching fabric which comprises forming a needle thread and a looper thread into a continuous series of double chain stitches along the edge of several folded fabric plies, the needle thread of each of certain recurrent spaced stitches of the chain being sewed through the fabric plies, other stitches of the chain intermediate the sewed stitches being formed around a forming element adjacent the fabric edge without direct connection with the fabric plies.

JACOB A. GOODMAN. 

